i was sad to learn Legendary photographer John Clear dies In October this year, he was 88 years old. he is one of them The most famous and respected climbing and mountaineering photographer the past 50 years.
His first commission was as photographer swiss documentaries Matterhorn centenary In 1965 he was the cameraman for Sir Chris Bonington’s famous BBC Live broadcast old man hoy in 1967 and continued filming Clint Eastwood in the Eiger Reserve in 1974. My copy of climbing legend Joe Brown’s autobiography hard times On the cover is a photograph by John Clear of Joe climbing a Welsh sea cliff.
John Clear too prolific writer of Richly illustrated books About rock climbing and mountaineering. his first, Snowdonia rock climbers in action Published in 1965 with Frank Smythe’s son Tony. Collins Range and Mountaineering Guide 1979, distant mountains 1999 and epic climb 2011. Two of the first books I ever bought off the coffee table pilgrim bookstore In Kathmandu, Richard Sale Stand on top of the world (on the first ascent of an 8,000m mountain) with Steve Razzetti The world’s top hikes Also edited by John.
He is also a Great alpinist and mountain explorer In his own right. He has climbed all over the world, including the Himalayas. He was a member of the 1971 International Expedition to the Southwest Face of Mount Everest. In 1978, he led the British team to attempt to climb the 7,893m Himalchuli Peak, and in 1982, he led the American team to successfully ski climb Muztagata Peak in China.
I had never met John Clear, but to my surprise (and great honor), he was Readers of this blog for over 10 years Also one of my most prolific commenters. It’s always a privilege to receive his posts, which are always fascinating. Because of his unique and vast experience, I felt like I was being led into some long-forgotten secrets of mountaineering.
I can miss his comments. It would be a shame if this valuable content was lost at the feet of some obscure blog posts. So, in honor of this great man and to thank him for blessing this blog with his wisdom, I would like to share some of it here.
A rare glimpse into China’s 1960 Everest expedition
John’s First comment on this blog It was in 2013, in response to a post I wrote a year earlier titled What climbing Everest taught me about George Mallory’s final hours.
John was the Chinese liaison officer for the 1982 Muztagh Atta expedition. Chu YinhuaIn 1960, the Chinese team climbed Mount Everest from the North Ridge for the first time. Zhu Wei led the climb to the second step. Some people believe this is the first time humans have climbed Mount Everest.
For a long time, China reached the summit in 1960 was disputeincluding John himself, because their official account of the climb seemed dubious. However, after meeting Chu Chu and talking about Mount Everest many times during the expedition, John changed his mind and believed that Chu Chu and his companions had indeed climbed Mount Everest in 1960.
Even more surprising, after talking to John and learning more about George Mallory, Zhu told John that he too Believe Mallory has reached the top – surprising, because it meant Chu’s Chinese team hadn’t made the first ascent of the North Ridge after all.
Was Machapuchare ever climbed in secret?
Every year, thousands of trekkers flock to Pokhara in Nepal to trek into the Annapurna Conservation Area. Perhaps the most striking mountain in Pokhara is Matterhorn-like Machapuchal (Also called fish tail because it has twin peaks when viewed from another angle).
As we all know, Machapuchare never been climbed. In 1957, a British mountaineering team persuaded the Nepalese authorities to designate it as a sacred mountain after climbing to within 50m of the summit. Permission to climb it has never been granted since.
But have you climbed up? illegally Secretly? If there were, then John wouldn’t approve. in a Comment on my rather boring post How much itch does Machapuchare have? In 2014, he provided some potentially interesting evidence.
Did Bill Tillman climb Pardo as he claimed?
During a trip to Nepal in 1949 (described in his book nepal himalayas), which the great mountain explorer Bill Tillman claimed to have climbed 5,928m Hiking Peak Paldor With Tenzing Norgay. In fact, Tillman and his companions are still considered to this day to have made the first ascent.
However, John thoroughly explored the area in 1974 and completely traversed Pardo’s southern and eastern ridges. He also led a commercial expedition to the mountain in 1977 with Mountain Travel, one of the earliest trekking operators. After reading Tillman’s description of the climb, John was convinced that Tillman and Tenzing must have climbed another mountainjust as he explained in a 2015 review on my post Tillman’s expedition to Lantang.
What’s wrong with modern outdoor apparel brands?
In another boring blog post from 2018, I posed this question Why do outdoor brands keep coming out with the perfect gear? Although it is intended as humorous postwhich prompted some very insightful and serious responses, including a letter from john.
He points out that some early mountaineering equipment manufacturers, such as Karrimor and Berghaus, were based on Small company owned by enthusiasts. In due course, they are taken over by larger companies whose business models are more aligned with market needs. fashion house than equipment manufacturers. The model is based on the assumption that customers prefer to choose the latest version over last year’s version.
For good measure, he recommended a book, The invisible man on Mount Everestfor anyone interested in The history of mountaineering equipment.
What is the Alpine Club’s mountaineering spirit recognition?
In 2021, when many of us are still complying with COVID-19 lockdown restrictions The Nepali government has declared Mount Everest open for climbing as it has not yet been vaccinated. While some mountain operators recognize it is too early to resume expeditions, others are eager to get back to work.
The results are predictable. Infection cases have emerged across Nepal and have spread to the Khumbu region and Everest Base Camp. With hospitals in Kathmandu overwhelmed, some of them tourists evacuated by helicopter from Everest Base Camp, they began Lifesaving oxygen is running out.
in a Leave a comment on my post Everest and COVID-19: Why aren’t operators donating oxygen to hospitals in Nepal? John reminds us Croucher InitiativeThe award was established by the Alpine Club in response to negative reports about selfish behavior on Everest. this Mountaineering spirit commendation Designed to honor those who sacrifice their own climbing goals to help other climbers – a spirit that seems distinctly lacking on Everest 2021.
What is the best route to Ladhar Bheinn in the Scottish Highlands?
John responded to more than just my Himalayan posts. He has traveled all over the world and has a wide range of interests. Even so, when I see His comment pops up In one of my trip reports, about Gentle backpacking destination In Scotland, Hut, boat and backpack: climbing the Knoydart Three Munros.
Last year, Edita and I spent two very enjoyable days in the U.S. Nordat On Scotland’s northwest coast, take a boat trip from Mallaig, climb Knoydart’s Three Munros and stay in a hut on the shores of Barrisdale Bay. John explains that the best route is Radar BeinMunros is one of the most beautiful landscapes in Scotland, located on the cliffs of Corrie in the northeast. He even suggested a topic for a future blog post, which sadly I never got around to writing.
In memory of Tony Smith
John’s Last comment on this blog It was in April of this year that I wrote an article 11 years ago about the great mountaineers of the 1930s. Frank Smythe.
Frank Smith’s son is John’s old climbing partner Tony Smithwith whom he wrote his first mountain photography book Snowdonia rock climbers in action (and whose book my father frank I commented here). Tony Smythe died in February aged 89, just eight months before John himself died. I guess John must have been googling his old friends to reminisce when one of my old posts popped up. It’s fitting that this should be his last comment.
Full list of John Cleare’s comments on this blog
Source link
