The latest in sustainable fashion
In 2022, senators introduced the New York Fashion Sustainability and Social Responsibility Act (or “Fashion Act”) to the New York State Legislature. Wants to hold larger apparel companies to stricter, legally binding environmental standards. The inspiration behind the move is clear and urgent: The $2.5 trillion fashion industry is a “climate nightmare,” accounting for 10% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions, according to the Natural Resources Defense Council, a group whose mission is to protect the planet. 4% to 8.6% of emissions. (The United Nations considers the fashion industry to be responsible for nearly 10% of carbon emissions!) Not to mention the industry’s water pollution, deforestation, toxic chemicals, and treatment of workers.
Basically, fashion’s destruction of the planet has given new meaning to the term “bad appearance.”
The bill stalled at one point, reportedly shelved due to more pressing issues, but is now gaining momentum again, thanks in part to Leonardo DiCaprio, according to industry publication Total Retail Celebrities such as Leonardo DiCaprio and Angelina Jolie, as well as important brands (some of which will be affected by the regulations) such as Stella McCartney, Eileen Fisher, Patagonia and Everlane.
Fortunately, there is also new momentum in sustainable fashion, thanks to innovations in eco-textile creation, upcycling, and the support of an increasing number of conscious designers, brands, and even shop owners. The latest green fashion is less about compromising style for the sake of sustainability and more about the myriad ways sustainability can (and must) nourish and even influence our style choices. However, there is no consensus on the definition of the term. Similar to buzzwords like “natural” and “clean” in the beauty world, this openness to interpretation allows for a degree of greenwashing (which is why formal legislation like the Fashion Act is so important). That said, this flexibility also allows for multiple ways to participate. “Sustainability means ten different things to ten different people,” explains Aileen Lerch, director of sustainability at San Francisco footwear brand Allbirds. “It could mean materials, worker health, animal welfare, water and a dozen other things — and each one is important.”
“Sustainability means ten different things To ten different people. this may mean materials, worker health, animal welfare, water, and a dozen other things—every This is important. “
—Aileen Lerch, Director of Sustainability, Allbirds
Allbirds was founded on the principle of replacing virgin petroleum-based plastics (which emit harmful chemicals and end up in landfills) with natural materials such as wool, tree fibers and sugar cane. Luckey still sees materials as one of the most interesting and inspiring areas of development. In fact, in addition to its library of natural materials, Allbirds is also experimenting with novel solutions, such as bioplastics that capture methane or polyethylene packaging based on sugar cane.
For Sabrina Phillips, vice president of design for G-III Apparel Group (specifically DKNY Jeans and Sport), materials are also where key progress is being made, but in the recycling department. “In my world, sustainability means constantly finding new and different ways to use less of the earth’s resources and produce less waste,” she explains, acknowledging that it’s a process of continuous improvement. “One of the most important ways our company embraces sustainability is through the raw materials we use. Recycling of polyester yarn is now common, whether from plastic bottles or other sources.”
This approach is being embraced throughout the industry. For example, the H&M Group launched Syre in March 2024, a new textile impact company dedicated to decarbonizing the industry and eliminating waste, and moving towards a more circular system at a “hyperscale”. This includes an offtake agreement with H&M itself worth $600 million.
That said, the challenge for many other brands interested in integrating these types of materials is financial. Recycled yarns are not as expensive as they used to be, but they still cost more than regular yarns, and not everyone can afford the higher prices.
Fortunately, there are other areas for ecological thinking. To offset its footprint, G-III’s DKNY team also reduced the packaging materials and plastic bags used for shipping, placing multiple garments into a single bag rather than packaging them individually. And, whenever possible, the company sources cotton through the Better Cotton Initiative, a global organization that currently accounts for 22% of global cotton production and works to improve agricultural practices, reduce chemical use and improve farming communities. living conditions.
For Los Angeles designer Janessa Leoné, regenerative agriculture is now the most important element of sustainability. When she launched her line in 2013, initially as a line of millinery, it was an instant hit with insider stylists and editors, in part because quality and durability have always been at the heart of the concept. “From the beginning, I wanted to create something lasting and meaningful,” she explains. “Our focus has always been on slow fashion – producing fewer pieces, but with more care, and of high quality that can be passed down for many generations.” Even the creations themselves continue to be inspired by the textures and forms of nature, reflecting a A quiet luxury and respect for the earth.
Today, Leone is taking her sustainability philosophy to the next level, with the goal of not only mitigating damage to the planet, but making the world a better, environmentally healthier place than she could have ever imagined. This means creating a fully traceable supply chain, especially for wool and leather, ensuring every element is responsibly sourced from regenerative farms that equally support ranchers and the soil itself. For example, its partner Shaniko Wool Company supplies carbon-negative wool products. “Sustainability is about reciprocity and regeneration,” Leone said. “This is not about maintaining the status quo. Our goal is to give back to those depleted systems and leave them better than we found them. Regenerative practices allow us to restore ecosystems, build soil health and increase biodiversity.”
Designers like Leone make these commitments because it’s the ethical thing to do. But as she acknowledges, growing consumer demand for accountability is forcing more and more fashion industry players to take action.
Kelly Wang lives this reality every day as the founder of Brooklyn-based sustainable boutique Rue Saint Paul, which launched online in 2018 and served as a boutique store before the coronavirus pandemic hit in early 2020. Brick and mortar store. For her, necessity is the mother of invention—and inspiration. “My interest in sustainable fashion stemmed from the need to align my work with my values,” she says. “When I started sourcing, I quickly learned about the negative impact the fashion industry has on the environment and labor. This brought me to a crossroads and I considered closing my business because I didn’t want to contribute to these ongoing issues. contribution. However, after extensive research and reflection, I realized that I could build a business rooted in circularity and sustainability.”
Wang decided to make her store more of a “sustainable closet” with the option to rent,
Buy or even sell second-hand independent brands, as well as discover new conscious product lines. Her exacting standards have led to her current obsession with Sailor Jeans from Kowtow (a completely plastic-free, fair-trade organic cotton brand from New Zealand), and vintage Appalachian quilts from Reclaim Creative in Knoxville, Tennessee quilted vest.
The boutique owner believes social media has gone some way to educating younger generations about the dangers of fast fashion and the benefits of second-hand shopping. “It’s all about embracing…the circular economy,” she explains. “[Sustainability is] It’s not just about materials or supply chains (although these are key elements), it’s about rethinking the entire life cycle of a product. The industry is trying to figure out how to… create a system where products can be reused, recycled or repurposed. “
As innovation continues to flourish, hope is on the horizon. But full realization will take time. “I do feel like most people in the fashion industry today have a sense and drive to be more sustainable,” Phillips said. “True sustainability is replenishing all the resources being used and not wasting anything, but as far as I know, no one has done that yet, so I prefer to keep looking for as many improvements as possible.”
Allbirds’ Lerch agrees: “We know we can’t wait for perfection [to act] Because climate change is real and is affecting us today. ”
“Regenerative practices allow us to Restore ecosystems and build soil health, and increase biodiversity. “
— Janessa Leoné, Los Angeles-based designer
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