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Located off the coast of Panama, Kuna Yala is isolated and self-governed by one of Panama’s seven indigenous communities: a province made up of hundreds of islands in the Caribbean. Guna Yala, formerly known as the San Blas Islands, is one of my favorite places to visit in Panama and one of the most unique experiences in the Americas.
Disclosure: I visited Guna Yala while participating in a pre-summit adventure hosted by ATWS in Panama.
I have visited Panama many times and this was the first time I was able to fully plan my trip to Guna Yala. It’s not an easy journey, and passing travelers often make the mistake of trying to squeeze too much into a day trip.
The truth is, I recommend staying at least one night to really immerse yourself (even that can feel like it’s not enough!) This guide to visiting Guna Yala/San Blas Panama will help you do just that.
How much do you know about Guna Yala?
Learn about Gunayura with these interesting facts.
What is Guna Yala famous for?
If you haven’t heard of Guna Yala before, you may have heard of San Blas. It is an archipelago off the Caribbean coast of Panama with more than 400 islands and cays.
A few years ago, Panama officially changed its name from San Blas to Guna Yala to more accurately represent the Guna tribe. You may see it used interchangeably with San Blas, or spelled Kuna Yala (the previous spelling), but in Panama and officially it’s “Guna Yala”.
The province of Kuna Yala is famous for its beautiful islands off the Caribbean Sea, autonomous indigenous communities and matrilineal societies. The Guna people live on nearly 50 of the more than 400 islands – and most of their properties are owned by women!
Who are the Guna people of Panama?
The Guna people are one of seven indigenous communities in Panama (Ngäbe, Buglé, Emberá, Wounaan, Bri Bri and Naso Tjërdi are six other). They can also be found in Colombia.
They previously lived in coastal jungles, but due to genocide, trade, and disease, they began occupying the islands in the 1800s. Despite Panama’s attempts to assimilate, the Guna are one of the few tribes in the world that fought for and won autonomy.
Known for their revolutionary rebellion, the 1925 Kuna Revolution, the Kuna people retained their customs and traditions and eventually became an autonomous territory.
Why is San Blas famous?
Once a hidden gem, social media has now made Guna Yala (San Blas, Panama) even more famous for its pristine turquoise waters, white sand beaches, and immersive experiences that support the local indigenous economy .
Guna Yala focuses heavily on the Panama Canal as a tourist destination, contrasting with the famous canal and the urban environment of Panama City. Tourism accounts for nearly 80% of its economy.
How to get there guna yala
The best way to get to the San Blas Islands.
Kuna Yala is located on the Caribbean side of the Panama coast. The final way to reach the island is by boat, and crossing the island territory is subject to a local treasury tax ($20 cash per person).
When I visited Guna Yala I had gone on a week long adventure tour through a company called “Guna Yala”. Panama Cultural Tour. I just came back from the village of Embera Puru in Chagres National Park, where we drove to the coast and then to the island where we had booked accommodation (Yanni Island).
The company I used (Cultour Panama Comment here) had made direct contact with local Guna tribe members and arranged our transportation, boat rides, and even a snorkeling experience for our island hopping day.
How to get from Panama City to Kuna Yala?
If you’re not planning on traveling to Guna Yala, but instead want to visit from Panama City, there are a few things you need to know.
- You will need a 4×4 vehicle to reach the port (due to the terrain, a 4×4 vehicle is required, it is about 3 hours drive from Panama City).
- You need to pay a tax of $20 per person and a tax of $5 per vehicle (USD)
- Then catch a water taxi in Cartí Port – $2-5 port tax; water taxi prices vary, but bring cash. Your accommodation may be able to arrange your boat, so please contact them first.
If a day trip to Guna Yala is your top choice, try the following activities:
What to Expect When Visiting Guna Yala
What you need to know about visiting San Blas so you can be prepared!
Is San Blas expensive?
In my experience Guna Yala is not a cheap tourist destination and cash is king. Generally speaking, Panama is not an affordable destination, so you can expect to spend just a few hundred dollars for a few days in San Blas.
Here are some examples of expenses to prepare for:
Cash is essential on the island and there are no ATMs for when you run out of cash. Everything has a cost: tips, boat rides, rentals, food, drinks and accommodation.
I don’t drink or buy souvenirs, so I brought a $100 cash allowance because I knew my meals and accommodation were paid for by the tour group I booked. Otherwise I would have to bring more.
- Accommodation costs $75-$300 per night, depending on quality.
- Sodas and small bottles of water are $3, and coconut water is $5.
- Unfinished Mola fabric squares (souvenirs) start at about $10
- I spent about $60 in tips throughout my stay
- Locals charge $2-5 per photo
- If you do not book a package, you will be charged for each trip (including island hopping)
Comfort level in Kuna Yala
One thing you need to know is that this is not a five-star vacation experience in the physical sense. Unless you charter a yacht and arrange to visit Guna Yala this way (you may still have to pay a visit fee), you’ll be experiencing a modest, simple lifestyle – even if it comes at a higher price.
Boat rides can be bumpy, long, and ultimately uncomfortable. You will wish you had brought a fan with you to your stay, the food will be good but not great. This is especially difficult if you are a vegetarian or vegan since we eat fish and eggs almost every day. This requires extra preparation on your part.
That said, I loved the experience and immediately thought about how I could get back there and bring my loved ones with me. I know I need to manage expectations, and because I do that, it’s been a lot easier to adapt.
Does San Blas speak English?
The Kuna people speak Kuna as their primary language, but many people (especially young people) also speak Spanish. If you don’t speak Spanish, a tour guide will come in handy.
When I visited San Blas I heard no English at all. I spoke Spanish to everyone, as did our tour guide. The tour group members who didn’t speak Spanish asked our Spanish speakers for help and learned some basic words along the way. I’m sure some guna speaks English as she has worked in the tourism industry for years, but I couldn’t hear it myself.
Island Hopping Guna Yala
My recommendations for visiting multiple islands in San Blas
Island hopping in Kuna Yala
One of the top things to do in Kuna Yala is island hopping. There’s not much to do on the island except relax and water, so enjoy it! I brought my waterproof Kindle Paperwhite and a snorkel from the tour group. That’s all I need.
When I visited Guna Yala we visited three islands and two cays/sandbars (in addition to the island where we stayed). You can squeeze in about 3-4 sites in a day before you start to get tired, but keep in mind that the distance between some islands can require an hour’s boat ride, so it’s best to ask your guide to recommend the best distance .
Places I recommend are Yani Island, Dutch Island and Narunega to learn about local life and buy Mora handmade fabrics (note: taking photos of locals is not encouraged).
Where to stay in Guna Yala
Advice on where to stay in San Blas
Accommodation in Kuna Yala varies greatly. There are different levels of accommodation on San Blas Island, from simple tents to beachfront or overwater bungalows.
I stayed at Yanni Island and loved it, although I made sure beforehand that my expectations were met. Here are some insights into the experience:
On the tour I took, I stayed in an overwater bungalow, but the accommodations were still very basic. I have a simple light bulb (it barely lights up the room so I don’t use it that often), a side table, and a simple bed/mattress. There were no fans, limited electricity, no nets or screens, and we used shared bathroom facilities (which are modern toilets that require water to flush). We did have showers and they could cook for us/sell drinks in the common dining area.
this is a video How I spend a typical morning on Yanni Island:
What to pack in San Blas, Panama
My tips for perfect packing for Guna Yala, Panama.
Packing for Guna Yala is the easiest thing you will do! I had a small backpack filled with everything I needed for two days. This is what I brought:
clothing:
- 2 swimsuits
- 1 beach towel
- Summer clothes and shirts (UV protection on board)
- shorts
- 1 set of pajamas
- 2 shirts (one long sleeve)
shoe:
- Sandals for the beach (I use Birkenstocks)
- Flip flops for shower
Personal belongings/toiletries:
- drug
- Sunscreen (reef safe)
- pesticides
- Toothbrush/Toothpaste
- Shampoo/Conditioner
- Contact Lenses/Glasses
- sunglasses
gear:
- Camera (I brought Insta360, GoPro, Sony a7c)
- power bank (No electricity, so must be powerful enough to charge multiple devices)
- dry bag (Essential! Your stuff may get wet on the boat, so keep your electronics dry)
- Lightweight tripod (I use this on my iPhone)
- Flashlight and fan (I use this one Combination one It makes me more comfortable there)
Is San Blas worth visiting?
Here’s the lowdown on visiting Guna Yala – is it worth it?
How to protect San Blas’ future
As climate changes and water levels rise, we don’t know how much longer Guna Yala will have to explore there. Some experts say there are only 80 years left!
Some islands are already planning to relocate due to rising sea levels and erosion. So how can you help? If you would like a paradise like this, please consider the environmental impact of our daily actions so that future generations of these communities will have access to paradise.
When you snorkel here, wear reef-safe sunscreen and be careful not to come into contact with marine life. Coral reefs help prevent erosion and protect coastlines. When visiting the islands, invest in hiring a local tour operator who knows how to get around the islands so you can avoid overcrowding on overpopulated islands. Always practice Leave No Trace principles and strive to leave a place better than you found it.
Is San Blas, Panama worth visiting?
Guna Yala takes some effort to get to and is not a quick and cheap place to stop by. So is it worth it? I say 100% yes. As someone of Caribbean descent and a lover of islands and snorkeling, Guna Yala was the highlight of my last trip to Panama and I’m already considering going back.
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