My recommended Black Forest itinerary

In the land of the Brothers Grimm, I expected creepy overgrown forests, quaint medieval towns, and maybe a gingerbread house or two. But it turns out that the Brothers Grimm’s story didn’t come from the Black Forest Germany (mostly from the middle).

Why do I think they are from there? I really don’t know. Maybe I got it from Disney?

Additionally, much of the area was converted to farmland due to large-scale logging in the 1700s and 1800s. Only recently, thanks to the efforts of environmentally friendly locals, has the forest slowly begun to return to the area.

But despite those dashed expectations (or maybe because of it), my week-long visit to the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) remains the highlight of my summer travels. It’s been on my bucket list forever, so I’m glad I finally crossed it off. I only wish I had spent more time there.

Located in the German state of Baden-Württemberg, this region is known for its forests (duh!), great hiking, huge waterfalls, verdant farmland, adorable cuckoo clocks (they were invented here!), and historic Famous for its medieval town (of which there is only one). A few of them were destroyed in World War II).

Considering how big the area is – and how confusing so many other blogs make planning a route around it – I wanted to lay out an easy-to-follow itinerary for you.

Getting to the Black Forest is very easy: you can fly there frankfurt north or zurich Head south and take the 1-2 hour train to your chosen departure city.

What’s the best route for the week?

If you have a week, I would take the following route, starting in Frankfurt (or vice versa if you are coming from Switzerland):

Heidelberg (2 days)

There is much to see in this university town, with many viewpoints and a short walk from the city centre. You’ll definitely want to visit the castle and its gardens, which offer stunning views of the city. Be sure to take a guided tour, as this is the only way to get inside the castle (the grounds are free, though). You can also visit the University Prison (used before World War II to imprison students who violated university regulations), the Heidelberg Kunsthalle Museum of Contemporary Art, and the Theater. Finally, there were multiple hikes to the mountains on the other side of the river.

Baden-Baden (2 days)

This spa town is famous for its naturally flowing hot springs, which have been a popular attraction since the Romans discovered them. In the 18th century, bathhouses and casinos (think less glamorous Monaco) were major attractions, attracting Europe’s rich and aristocrats. Today, Baden-Baden is a popular spa destination. There are two large bathhouses in the town (the historic Friedrich’s Baths are nude, while the new Caracalla Baths are not), as well as the Hornbaden Castle (which can be admired by taking the cable car to the top of the Hausberg Mountain). views of the area) and the Faberge Museum. Of course, since this is the Black Forest, there’s plenty of hiking to do.

Freiburg (2-3 days)

My favorite city in the region has a beautiful rebuilt center (much of it was destroyed during WWII), a bächle (open stream) running through the town, an incredible food scene, and affordable prices thanks to of large universities. Other highlights include the cathedral, the historic bell tower, the merchants’ hall, the archaeological museum and the Schlossberg, which houses a castle (hence the name) and offers stunning views of the town and surrounding area, as well as many nice Beer garden.

I would use the city as a base for nearby hikes to Ravenna Gorge and a visit to Triberg, home to a giant waterfall and cuckoo clock. Ravenna Gorge is an easy half- to full-day hike, depending on how much area you want to hike. You’ll stroll through canyons, see waterfalls and pass through farmland.

Triberg is famous for its huge waterfalls and oversized cuckoo clock. It takes a few hours to get there from Freiburg but I would only do it as a day trip because while the waterfall and cuckoo clock are cool, there’s not much else to do in town and I found spending a full night here a bit boring.

What are some good two-week itineraries in the area?

If you have two weeks I would spend an extra day in Freiburg as there is so much to do and you can do more day trips from there. Then I’m also going to add the following:

Offenburg (1 day, after Baden-Baden)
Offenburg’s name means “open borough” and although it was originally a Roman settlement, it is best known for its medieval walls, houses and churches. It has many buildings displaying Baroque, Gothic and Medieval styles. You can also visit the castle, history museum and Black Forest Open Air Museum, which is a 40-minute drive from Offenburg.

Europark (1 day, en route from Offenburg to Freiburg)
This theme park is like the Disneyland of Europe. It’s fun, very popular with locals, much better priced than Disney, and a fun way to spend a day. You can stay within the park or in the nearby town of Rust.

Hiking around Titisee, Schluchsee and Feldberg (2 days or more)

There are also many lakes and hiking opportunities in the area, so you can easily spend a few days in nature if you have time. If you’re looking for water sports, Titisee is a small town located on the lake of the same name. Schluchsee is another lake popular with Germans. You can also go on multi-day hikes in Feldberg. Indeed, wherever you go, you’ll find hiking trails.

How do you travel?

although car rental The easiest way to get around the Black Forest area, you can also take the bus and train, which is what I did. Something to remember is that while trains are plentiful, buses are often limited, especially on Sundays, which seems to be a day off for much of Germany. If you’re not renting a car and plan to visit smaller cities, be sure to look up train and bus timetables in advance.

The Black Forest is the highlight of my summer Europe. This is where I meet the most people, have the most fun, and hike the most. I just love the atmosphere there. If you love cute small towns, affordable places to visit, great outdoor activities, and delicious food, the Black Forest is definitely an area you need to explore.

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